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A. OARPENTIER. EMBBOIDERING MACHINE.

N6. 566,656. Patented Aug. 25, 1696.

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3 Sheets-Sheet 8.

(N0 Model.) A. OARPENTIER;

13MBROIDBRING MACHINE.

No. 566,656. Patented Aug. 25, 1896.

' W/TNESSES: INVENTOH UNITED STATES PATENT Erica.

ARsENE OARPENTI R, on CAUDRY, FRANCE.

EMBROlDERlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 566,656, dated August25, 1896.

Application filed April 3, 1895. Serial No. 544,312. (No model.)Patented in France July 11, 1894, No. 289,960.

T0 at whont it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ARSIENE CARPENTIER, a citizen of the Republic ofFrance, residing in Caudry, (North) France, have invented certainImprovements in and Relating to Embroidering-Machines, (for which I haveobtained a French. patent, No. 239,960, dated July 11, 1894,) of whichthe following is a specification.

My invention relates to embroidering-machines, and comprises devicespermitting the application of the Jacquard mechanism with perforatedcards to the automatic operation.

of the frame for carrying the fabric, and therefore dispensing with thespecial attendant charged with the guiding or the operation of thepantograph employed in the reading of the design. This device, moreover,enables the production to be augmented and to be rendered more economic.

According to my invention the Jacquard mechanism may be a so-calledManchester Jacquard mechanism with threads or strings and two sets ofdroppers corresponding to the heddles of an ordinary Jacquard loom. Inany case the mechanism employed is divided into two parts, one, whichoperates in con junction with the odd cards and is preferably placed tothe left of the machine, being designed for eifectin g the upwardmovement of the work-holding frame and its movements from right to left,and the other, which operates in conj unction with the even cards and isplaced to the right of the machine, being designed for effecting thedownward movement of the work-holdin g frame and its move ments fromleft to right. These two parts of the Jacquard mechanism operate bymeans of appropriate gear-wheels, shafts, and cams. By a specialarrangement the work'holding frame,-while being operated through theintermedium of its droppers for changes in its position, is independentof them after these movements are executed, which has the effect that,with a number of droppers having the respective thicknesses of one-half,one, two, four, eight, and sixteen millimeters in each set, I maygradually move the workholding frame from one-half millimeter to fiftymillimeters and more, as will be fully described hereinafter.

In order thatmy invention may be clearly understood, I have representedthe same in the accompanying drawings, in. which Figure 1 of thedrawings is a longitudinal elevation of the work-holding frame of anembroidering-machine with the aforesaid actuating apparatus at eachextremity. Fig. 2-is a plan of the same. Fig. 3 represents, separately,a perforated card. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 show in longitudinal elevation,plan, and end elevation, respectively, amodification of the arrangementrepresented in Figs. 1 and 2.

In carrying my said invention into practice I support the work-holdingframe A of the embroidering-machine, which is designed to carry thefabric and is made of varying length, by a series of rollers a, whichleave it all freedom of motion in the longitudinal direction. Theserollers are mounted in forks a, fixed to a bar B, suspended by anydesired number of straps, cords, or bands Z), winding, respectively,upon pulleys c, keyed upon a shaft C, which is suitably supported bybrackets (not shown) provided for this purpose. Counterweights d orother means tend constantly to pull back the said frame A up- Wardl y.These counterweights are attached by straps, cords, or hands windingupon pulleys e in the inverse direction-to the beforementioned straps,cords, or bands I).

Upon the shaft C are secured two pulleys O and C upon which are woundstraps b and b attached to back rods 72. 71,, connected to the Jacquardmechanisms arranged one on the right and the other on the left of theworkholding frame.

, At each of the extremities of the frame A are guides A A wherein canmove the roll ers g g, journaled, respectively, on the front rods h h,connected to the before-mentioned Jacquard mechanisms. The said twostraps b b are wound inversely upon their respective pulley-s G and C Asshown, the workholding frame A is free to move longitudinally andtransversely, that is to say, horizontally and vertically, under theaction of the Jacquard mechanisms. Each of these Jacquard mechanismscomprises iwo ordinary swinging frames or levers D D',independent ofeach other, placed one behind the reciprocating movement by means of anyapproved mechanism in use, and aroller F, upon which the perforatedcards pass, needles and hooks G in any suitable number causing thedroppers H to operate through the medium of the threads or stringsf,whereby the latter are connected to the said needles. These parts donot present any particular new feature in their construction andoperation. It will be understood that these parts operate in the usualmanner to give the frames or levers D D a swinging movement. ating-barse during their reciprocating movement come in contact with the droppersH, which partly fill the space between the said operatingbars and theadjacent upper por tion of the levers D D. As hereinbefore mentioned andalso indicated in Figs, 2 and 5 of the drawings, the droppers of one setare of different thicknesses, and the stroke of the operating-bars 6being always the same. it will be obvious that the extent of themovement of the levers D D will be varied according to the aggregatewidth of the space filled out by the droppers left in their lowerposition. When employing a set of droppers of the relative thicknessesone-half, one, two, four, eight, and sixteen, as before mentioned, itwill be obvious that by raising one or more of said droppers theaggregate width of all the droppers left in their lower position can bemade equal to any thickness from onehalf to thirty-one, (sixty-twodifferent thicknesses,) while when all of the droppers are in the lowerposition their aggregate thickness will be equal to -+1+2+4+8+16=3l Thusit will be seen that with six droppers of the above relative thicknessesthe extent of I, that of the levers, I provide the said levers in eachof the Jacquard mechanisms with parts j and j, having the form ofpincers, between the branches of which are arranged rigid rods h and h,of which the front rod h at its free end carries the roller g,hereinbefore referred to, and the back rod h is connected to a cord 1',which after passing around a guide-pulley k is attached to thecorresponding strap, cord, or band I) or b also hereinbefore mentioned.

The branches of the pincersj secured to one of the levers D are situatedbetween two rollers Z and m, one of which is journaled in a bearing n,fixed to the Work-holding frame of the embroidering-machine and to whichsprings R are likewise attached, and the other in a lever 0. This lever0 oscillates upon a pivot 19 and carries a roller g, which, under theaction of a spring t, bears upon a cam r, secured to a shaft 8 of theJacquard meoh The oper-.

anism. This device serves to depress the first or upper roller m. Thepincers j of the second lever D are actuated by a similar device, thecorresponding parts being designated by the same reference-letters withthe index-numeral 1. From this it will be seen that the J acquardmechanisms are connected with the work-holding frame A of theembroidering-machine by their first couple of levers D D in such amanner as to impart to it a horizontal or longitudinal movement, and bytheir second couple of levers D D in such a manner as to impart to it atransverse or vertical movement. The left-hand mechanism receives uponits cylinder F the odd cards, while the right-hand mechanism receivesupon its cylinder F the even cards. Supposin g with regard to theright-hand side that the front lever D is brought upon the stop E by itsspring R, that the upper roller m is free, and that the droppers H areraised by the needles and threads or strings, the cylinder F, situatedon the right-hand side, takes up the second card, which, by thecombination of the holes pierced therein and the needles, allows thedesired number of droppers H to fall. The upper roller on, set inmovement by the aforesaid cam r and lever 0, compresses the pincers j onthe right-hand side, while the operating-bar e of the jacquard, set inmotion in the ordinary manner, carries away the front lever D to theright by the aggregate thickness made up by the droppers fallen, and asthe rod h, between the said pincers, is

securely clamped thereto, and consequently operatively connected to thefront lever D, the latter will impart to the work-holding frame acorresponding horizontal movement to the right.

"While the front lever or frame D on the right-hand side works as beforedescribed, the upper roller m on the left-hand side is freed, and thecylinder F of the Jacquard mechanism on this side takes up the firstcard, which, by the combination of its holes, needles, and threads orstrings, lets the desired number of droppers fall. From this it followsthat when the right-hand part has finished its work and when the.pincers j on the right-hand side are freed the left-hand part, whosepincers j are tightened at the same moment, will move the Work-holdin gframe A to the left to a definite extent, which, as above explained,corresponds to the aggregate thickness of the droppers which are intheir lower position. It will thus be seen that the work-holding frame Ais alternately connected to the mechanism on the right and to themechanism on the left for the purpose of effecting horizontal movementsto the right and to the left. If, therefore, with the second card on therighthand side, I impart to the Work-holding frame A a movement whoseextent is in proportion to the droppers fallen, for example, a movementof twenty-five millimeters, and with the first card on the left-handside no movement, it is clear that if the fourth card j j j", and fourrigid rods h 7& h 71.

on the right-hand side also makes a move ment of twenty-five millimetersthe workholding frame will be displaced to the right a distance of fiftymillimeters; or, if the second card makes a movement of one-halfmillimeter and the first card likewise a movement of one-halfmillimeter, the workholding frame returns to its original place,embroidering to the extent of half a millimeter. It will be rememberedthat the odd-numbered cards control the lateral movement of the frame Ain one direction and the even cards the lateral movement in the oppositedirection. Similar or different effects may be produced on either side,according to the requirements of the design, and the total movement ofthe work-holding frame is limited only by the length of the pincers jj.

The rear levers or frames D and D of the right-hand and left-hand sidesoperate alternately under the same conditions, but have for their objectto produce, respectively, the upward and downward movements of thework-holding frame A, so that this frame is connected to the left handJacquard 1nechanism for the upward movements and to the right handJacquard mechanism for the downward movements. Thus the work-holdingframe A may be displaced to the left, to the right, downward or upward,alternately or successively, according to the nature of the design to beembroidered upon the fabric stretched on the said frame and reproducedby suitable perforations in the Jacquard cards, a specimen of which isrepresented in Fig. 3 of the drawings.

In Figs. 4, 5, and 6 of the drawings I have represented a modificationof the apparatus hereinbefore described for the purpose of realizing agreat saving in the construction and requiring less space for placingthe ma chine. In this modification the Jacquard mechanism on theright-hand side is completely dispensed with.

The Jacquard mechanism on the left-hand side is exactly the same asbefore described for controlling the upward movements and the movementsfrom the right to the left hand side of the work-holding frame. Thelevers, pincers, and other parts of the Jacquard mechanism which in theabove-described construction were on the right-hand side are placed bythe side of those of the Jacquard mechanism on the left-hand side, fromwhich it results that this Jacquard mechanism possesses four levers orframes D D D D four sets of droppers II H II H four pincersj However,there are no additional needles G to actuate the Jacquard mechanism forthe droppers, each needle operatin g two droppers of the same relativeposition in the two sets, effecting either the horizontal movements orthe vertical movements.

The rollers m m m m are mounted each upon a lever 4, pivoted at M andprovided with a roller 3, engaginga cam 2, keyed upon the shaft 1 of theJacquard mechanism.

The lever 4; is subjected to the action of a spring ('3, whose tensioncauses the branches of each of the corresponding pincers j j j j to beforcibly pressed together. Each lever is controlled by a balancing-hook7', 0perated in turn by the Jacquard mechanism by means of a needle, ofa hook, and a wire or string or thread, which, for example, has theeffect that, the same movement being caused by the cards, theneedles,and droppers at the two squares for the horizontal move ments,this movement will be transformed into a movement from right to left ifthe lever for the movement from left to right is prevented from acting,and the movement from left to right will be effected if the levercontrolling the movement from right to left is prevented from acting.The same is the case for the vertical movements.

In Figs. 4, 5, and (3 the letters indexed 1 refer to the parts for theupward movement; those indexed 2 refer to the downward movement; thoseindexed 3 refer to the movement from right to left, and those indexed 4.refer to the movement from left to right. The transmission of thehorizontal movements from right to left and vertical upward movementshaving remained the same, I describe here only the differences whichexist for the other movements. The horizontal movement from left toright is obtained by the rod h which terminates in a rack gearing with atoothed wheel 8 and returning the movement by another rigid rod 9,terminating likewise in a rack gearing with the same toothed wheel. Thevertical downward movement is the same except that it takes place on theleft of the machine by the side of the inverse vertical movement.

It is understood that the dimensions and forms of the various partshereinbefore mentioned may be modified without departing from theprinciple or scope of my invention. The materials employed may also bevaried at will.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my saidinvention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare thatwhat I claim is I. In an embroidering or like machine, a movablework-holding frame, a reciprocating actuating-frame movableindependently of the work-holding frame, means for temporarily couplingthe actuating-frame and the work-holding frame so as to move the latter,an operating device having a reciprocating motion, movable droppers ofdiiferent width or thickness arranged between the actuatingframe and theoperating device, and adapted to extend into the path of travel of thelatter to control the extent of the reciprocating movement of the saidactuating-frame, and mechanism for selecting the droppers, substantiallyas described.

2. In an embroidering or like machine, a movable Work-holding frame, arod connected to the said frame to move therewith, a reciprocatingactuating-frame having a fork or clamp projecting adjacent to the saidrod, means for compressing the fork or clamp to temporarily couple theactuating-frame and the rod so as to move the work-holding frame, anoperating-bar having a reciprocating mo tion, movable droppers arrangedbetween the actuating-frame and the operating-bar and adapted to extendinto the path of travel of the latter to control the extent of thereciprocating movement of the said actuatingframe and mechanism forselecting the droppers, substantially as shown and described.

3. In an embroidering or like machine, a movable work-holding frame, areciprocating actuating-frame movable independently of the work-holdingframe, means for temporarily coupling the actuating-frame and theWork-holding frame so as to move the latter, an operating device havinga reciprocating motion, movable droppers arranged between theactuating-frame and the operating device, and adapted to extend into thepath of travel of the latter to control the extent of the reciprocatingmovement of the said actuatingframe, the width or thickness of saiddroppers varying according to a geometrical progression whose ratio istwo, and mechanism for selecting the droppers, substantially asdescribed.

4:. In an-embroidering or like machine, a'

movable work-holding frame provided with a longitudinal and a transverseguideway, a movable rod engaging the transverse guideway of the saidframe to permit of independent transverse movement of the latter, yetcompel the rod and frame to move in unison upon longitudinal movement ofthe rod, another movable rod and operating parts connected thereto andengaging the longitudinal guideway of the work-holdin g frame to movethe latter transversely, yet allow it to move longitudinallyindependently of the secondnamed rod, independent reciprocatingactuating-frames having parts projecting adjacent to said rods, meansfor temporarily coupling either of the actuating-frames and its rod soas to move the work-holding frame either longitudinally or transversely,an operating-bar havinga reciprocating motion, movable droppers arrangedbetween the actuating-frames and the operating-bar and adapted to extendinto the path of travel of the latter to control the extent of thereciprocating movement of the said actuatingframes and mechanism forselecting the droppers, substantially as described.

5. In an embroidering or like machine, a movable work-holding frameprovided with a longitudinal and a transverse guideway, a movable rodengaging the transverse guideway of the said frame to permit ofindependent transverse movement of the latter, yet compel the rod andframe to move in unison upon longitudinal movement of the rod, anothermovable rod, a shaft extending longitudinally of the Work-holding frame,a band secured to the second-named rod and winding on said shaft to turnthe same in one direction, means having a tendency to turn the shaft inthe opposite direction, other bands winding on said shaft and operatingparts secured to said bands and engaging the longitudinal guideway ofthe work-holding frame to move the latter transversely, yet allow it tomove longitudinally independently of the second-named rod, independentreciprocating actuating-frames having parts projecting adjacent to saidrods, means for tern porarily coupling either of the actuatingframes andits rod so as to move the workholding frame either longitudinally ortransversely, an operating-bar havinga reciprocating motion, movabledroppers arranged between the actuating-frames and the operatingbar andadapted to extend into the path of travelof the latter to control theextent of the reciprocating movement of the said actuating-frames andmechanism for selecting the droppers, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

ARSENE OARPENTIER. lVitnesses:

FLAMANT LEON, GODARD CHARLEMAGNE.

